LFW Pet Care

Just a super-quick note.

Dr Jones’ Veterinary Secrets Revealed Home Study Course 2.1 is now available. You can check it out at this link:

http://www.veterinarysecretsrevealed.com/cmd.php?af=1030307&u=course

WARNING: That is a pretty long video and page. Dr Jones tried to keep it short, but describing all the components of the course took a lot of time and space.

P.S. Dr Jones can ONLY ensure that you get his Special Workshop Bonus if you are one of the first 100 who get the Course.

And with this being sent to OVER 100,000 pet owners, interest is HIGH.

The page is at:

http://www.veterinarysecretsrevealed.com/cmd.php?af=1030307&u=course

What is urine marking?

Urine marking – sometimes called spraying – is when your cat deposits small amounts of urine (usually on vertical surfaces) as a kind of message tag to announce his presence.

Although this issue involves inappropriate urination inside the house, marking isn’t actually a housetraining problem: it’s a deliberate expression of territoriality, which is a completely different thing.

Why do cats mark?

There are a number of reasons why cats mark:

- Territoriality: the cat is letting other cats know that the marked area is “his” territory
- To communicate sexual availability
- Out of stress or anxiety
- A change of location: some cats will begin to mark when their owners move house
- If a new animal or human is introduced to the house
- Because of overcrowding (too many other cats in the house)
- The cat is receiving less attention than normal
- A significant change in lifestyle or routine (for example, the owner gets a full-time job; someone moves out of home; the house is renovated)

Which cats are more likely to mark?

All cats mark – and unfortunately, there’s no way of predicting in advance which cats are going to become sprayers!

However, some cats are more likely to mark than others. From most likely to least likely, these are:

- Unneutered (intact) male cats
- Neutered male cats
- Intact females
- Spayed females

If you have an intact male cat, urine marking is practically to be expected. The urine of a tomcat has that characteristically strong, catty odor, and is very recognizable (and offensive) to humans: neutering your male cat will remove this odor and will also reduce the likelihood of recurrent marking.

Although neutering is strongly recommended in the treatment of feline marking, it’s not necessarily guaranteed to work: approximately 10% of neutered males and 5% of neutered females keep right on doing it.

How can I get my cat to stop marking?

Although there’s no hard-and-fast, guaranteed ‘cure’ for this undesirable behavior, there are a number of steps that you can take which are likely to either significantly reduce, or stop entirely, your cat’s marking.

Listed below are some of the most effective options:

- Take him for a checkup

There are a huge number of reasons why your cat is choosing to urinate outside the litterbox: he may be marking, or there may be a medical cause for the behavior. Before you can decide on appropriate treatment, you need to rule out health-related causes for the inappropriate elimination.
Take him to the vet for a urinalysis (a complete analysis of his urine) and an overall checkup, to make sure that there are no medical reasons for his behavior.

- Neuter your cat

Neuter your cat immediately. This is the single most effective thing you can do to stop your cat’s spraying, and if you hope to get any control at all over the issue, it’s pretty much mandatory.

Statistics show that a whopping 87% of all cats stop marking when they’re altered – of this number, 78% cease marking immediately, and 9% stop within three months.

- Behavioral modification

Behavior modification is a tried and true method of controlling your cat’s spraying, although it will require a considerable investment of time and effort on your behalf. You’ll need to supervise your cat closely, paying attention to where and when he marks. The use of behavioral-modification tools like water pistols and shake cans (a tin can with ten pennies or a handful of pebbles inside – when shaken, it makes a loud, scary noise) speeds the process up considerably: when you catch him marking, startle him out of continuing by either spraying him with the water pistol or shaking the can vigorously.

‘Redesignating’ the areas which he tends to mark in can also help: cats don’t like to spray in areas where they eat, sleep, and play. If he marks in particular places around the home (as opposed to indiscriminately), put his food bowls next to the spot, play with him there, and put his bed there.

- Make things easy for your cat

Treatment for marking is based around removing your cat’s motivation to mark in the first place. The most common reasons for marking is territoriality: he could be feeling threatened by the presence of strange cats around the house, or he could be experiencing some conflict with another cat(s) in the house. So, to control his marking behavior, you need to minimize his need to act in a defensive, territorial way.

You can do this by minimizing his exposure to the strange cats, and by resolving any conflict in the home.

For strange cats:

Keep him inside the house, and restrict his access to windows: shut the doors to high-risk rooms, block out his view by installing shields across the sills (these are made of translucent plastic, and can be bought from home-improvement and DIY stores), and if you have a cat-flap, make sure it’s permanently closed (both to prevent your cat from going outside, and to prevent other cats from coming in.)

For problems inside the home:

If the problem’s based around a situation in the home (perhaps he’s feeling overcrowded, perhaps there are conflict issues with one or more other cats), you’ll need to pay attention to how your cats are interacting, and then separate the cats that have issues with each other.

Keep them in separate rooms, with separate litter boxes and food bowls. This doesn’t have to be a permanent thing – once the spraying’s stopped, give them at least another week of separation (just to be on the safe side) and then you can gradually reintroduce them by way of mutually-enjoyable events like mealtimes and playtimes.)

- Use your common sense

Make it really easy for your cat to urinate appropriately. Make sure that there are enough litter boxes in the house: there should be at least one more than the total number of cats. If you have a multi-storey house, make sure there’s at least one box per storey (more, if you have more cats), and see that they’re all cleaned regularly.

For a really detailed look at how to deal with your cat’s behavior problems, take a look at Complete Cat Training. It’s a cutting-edge cat training manual that’s focused on training your cat and changing her behavior for the better.

For professional tips on transforming your cat’s behavior problems (as well as teaching her some pretty neat tricks, from sit and stay to roll over, play dead, and fetch!) Complete Cat Training comes very highly recommended.

You can visit the Complete Cat Training website by clicking on the link below:
Complete Cat Training

It isn’t very often that I come across something in the world of
dog training that truly impresses me, but recently I came across a
dog training guide that is simply outstanding.

Before telling you what it’s about, I just want you to be clear on
what it is NOT.

It is NOT a guide to dog training that teaches you how to get your
dog to obey by hitting, scolding or abusing your dog.

It does NOT encourage you to punish or hurt your dog in any way.

Here’s what it IS about…

You’ll learn how to get your dog to WANT to please you and WANT to
be a good dog.

He’ll learn:

- Where and when it is appropriate to bark
- To stop digging up your yard
- To stop chewing your furniture and clothes
- To stop being aggressive towards people and other dogs
- To stop whining, especially at night.
- To stop bolting out the front door
- To stop pulling on the leash
- To stop jumping up on strangers and other family members
- Potty training secrets, and a whole lot more!

And he’ll learn how to do all of this using his natural dog
instincts (rather than human psychology).

You’ll discover that mistakes that you are probably making, such as
giving your dog attention when he jumps up on you (eg petting, or
scolding) and others, are communicating the wrong message to your
dog.

You’ll find out how you should communicate to your dog.

It’s not your fault, most other dog owners make these same mistakes
and you’ll be so impressed with the changes in your dogs behavior
once you read this essential book.

To find out more, go get your copy of Secrets to Dog Training -
STOP Dog Behavior Problems

http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/index.php?aff=futureads&type=chewing

Kriss

Pet identification is highly required in these days because of the need for the licensing of the dog in a proper manner and to reduce the numbers of the stray dog menace in streets.  Pet identification is done by many methods, which are different from each other. The cost factor for that also has variations accordingly.

 The identification of your pet may be done by personalized tags, some times by the municipal license tag, rabies tag, and more. Most of the time, your telephone number and your name will be on a place in the personalized tags of the dogs.  If anybody encounters the dog accidentally in the event of the dog having gone missing, they will be capable of reporting the facts to the concerned officials.

 Plastic and metal pet identification tags are available in multiple colors and the dog owners can choose the color they want. However, many select the reflective type of dog tags along with the collars.  Hence, the dogs can be identified even in darkness to a greater extent.

 Nowadays, many electronic gadgets are available like microchips which are embedded into the dog. However, these kinds of electronic chips need to be implanted behind the ears and once implanted, this will reveal all the data embedded in this in the computer. 

How is someone who finds the animal supposed to know if it is chipped? Good question: They would have to take it to a vet to check if it is chipped. Where as a collard and tagged animal makes an indication that it is not a stray animal immediately and this gives more security to the dog.  Thus tracing the missed animal will become easier for the pet owners also mainly due to the identification-based dog collars.

Please leave your thoughts and comments on this subject. Our readers want to know.

It’s all very well to hear people talking about the beauties of an aquarium, how to maintain adequate pH, keeping nitrate and phosphate levels adequately balanced, and so on … there seems to be plenty of technical detail available!

But what about the actual fish? How do you choose which ones you want? How do you know whether they’ll be too big for the tank when they grow up, or whether they’ll be compatible with your other fish? How do you find out how to stock your tank?

Here is a quick rundown of the things you’ll need to bear in mind when choosing fish for your tank, as well as a brief look at a couple of the more common types of tropical fish. Hopefully it’ll give you a good idea of where to get started!

Freshwater vs. Saltwater

Obviously, the water type is different, but what does that actually mean in terms of the kind of aquarium you’ll end up with?

Specifically, freshwater tanks are generally recommended for beginner aquarists – especially if children are going to be involved in looking after the fish.

This is because freshwater fish are much easier to look after, and are generally more resilient to less-than-perfect water quality and fluctuations in temperature (and, really, all the sorts of mistakes that beginners are prone to make!). In general, freshwater tanks are both cheaper and easier to maintain than saltwater ones.

Saltwater aquariums often have more colorful fish, but maintaining the chemistry of a saltwater tank is a pretty finicky business, and is best undertaken by someone well-versed in the lore of fish-keeping.

What to think about when choosing your fish

Unfortunately, choosing fish for an aquarium isn’t as simple as you might think. You can’t just go into a pet store and select arbitrary numbers of the fish that you find the most appealing – you need to invest some forethought into your tank to ensure that your fish lead happy, healthy lives.

Some things to think about:

So what types of fish can I buy then?

Shopping for tropical fish is fun! As long as you’ve got your tank dimensions figured out and know basically how much money you want to spend (and have perhaps printed out the above list, to take with you to the store), grab your wallet and head to the pet shop/fish breeder. One of the best parts about keeping a tropical tank is that the beauty of the fish doesn’t depend on the size of your checking account!

Some common breeds that you’ll likely encounter:

Further Reading

For more information on the technicalities of keeping a tropical fish tank, check out Katy’s Tropical Fish – A Complete Guide. As the title promises, it’s a complete compendium for the responsible fish-keeper of any experience level, and is packed from start to finish with valuable gems of relevant, detailed, and easy-read information.

You can take a look at the book by clicking on the link below:

Katy’s Tropical Fish

When most people think about animal obedience work, cats aren’t usually the first candidates to spring to mind.

We tend to associate cats with words like aloof, independent, and laid back – they seem to focus on doing what they want, pretty much as and when they feel like it.

You might be excused for thinking that this isn’t really ideal training material!

However – there’s an ever-increasing number of people who are deriving a great deal of pleasure from training their cats in basic and advanced obedience work and tricks (from sit, stay, come to jumping through hoops, twirling, and high-fiving) – and what’s more, they’re convinced that their cats enjoy it, too!

The benefits of training your cat

Just because cats typically lead solitary, individual lives doesn’t mean that they necessarily want to do so.

In fact, many cats are incredibl affectionate and loving by nature – they just need you to demonstrate your leadership and initiate the rapport-building process.

Cats are often underestimated when it comes to the training process, simply because the average owner has very little need to attempt any sort of training at all. Unlike with dogs (whose ability to learn is very well documented) there’s no need to train cats in the basics of pet protocol like house training and bathing.

Consequently, relatively few people are aware of their cat’s abilities in this area.

Training your cat is a fantastic way to enrich your cat’s life:

- It builds a strong rapport between you and your cat
- Because training underlines your authority (your cat has to do what you want to get what he wants), it helps to curb dominant behavior
- It keeps your cat’s mind active and stimulated
- It’s great interactive play, and teaches good social skills
- Anxious and highly-strung cats are reassured and soothed by the repetition and routine of training

So how do I train my cat?

There are two popular methods of training a cat: target training and clicker training. A brief rundown of each:

- Target training is where you attract your cat’s attention and then obtain desired behaviors through the use of a designated tool. For example, during the ‘beg’ command, a particular target training tool called a training wand is used to attract the cat’s attention upwards, and to encourage the cat to rise up on his haunches and ‘beg’.

- Clicker training is a form of operant conditioning (which is where the animal is taught to form a conscious association between a specific behavior and a result.) A small mechanical noise-maker (the ‘clicker’) is used by the trainer to create a short, distinct noise. The clicker is clicked at the precise moment that the cat performs a desired behavior – for example, during ‘sit’, the clicker is clicked at the very instant that the cat’s bottom touches the ground. Directly after the click, the cat is fed a small and tasty treat. With repetition, the cat grows to associate the click with the food, and recognizes his own ability to earn treats by performing the desired action on command. The clicker is a particularly valued training tool because it allows the trainer to pinpoint the exact behavior that’s being rewarded: without the clicker, it’s too easy for the cat to form associations between the treat and a completely unrelated behavior (since it’s impossible to feed the cat a treat at the precise moment that he’s performing a trick.)

Practical tips for training your cat

- Remember to be patient. Your cat is an individual, with his own abilities and preferences. He will pick up some tricks quickly, but may struggle with others. Make allowances for his personality, and don’t lose your temper if it doesn’t go exactly according to schedule.

- If you’re free-feeding your cat (leaving food out at all times for him to eat as and when he feels like it), stop doing this. Enforcing a feeding schedule has two main benefits: it increases the reward-value of food treats as training devices, and also introduces a semblance of routine into your cat’s life (which, believe it or not, most cats actually prefer.)

- Train smart. If you’re using food treats (which is highly recommended to achieve the desired results) then schedule training sessions for just before mealtimes: your cat’s natural desire for food at his regular mealtime will sharpen his focus and increase his desire to obey you (so he can get a treat.)
- Take baby steps. When training your cat, it’s best to build up a solid foundation of the basics before attempting to expand his repertoire.

- Cats have pretty short attention spans, and low boredom thresholds. Keep lessons short and interesting – and always try to end on a positive note.

An example of successful cat training in action

Training your cat to ‘sit’ on command

‘Sit’ is a great basic command for your cat to know, because it serves as the foundation for a number of other, more advanced tricks and commands (for example, ‘stay’, ‘beg’, and ‘high five’.)

- Make your training wand extra-effective by smearing the tip in a little tuna oil, and use it to attract your cat’s attention (wave it around, trail it past his face, etc.)

- Once he’s come over to you, place the wand just over his head, so that it’s slightly behind the crown of his head.

- He will tilt his head back to keep his eyes on it. When he does this, he will naturally sit down (since otherwise, his neck can’t bend back far enough to allow him to keep watching the training wand.)

- As he sits down, say the word ‘Sit’, which will be the verbal cue for this command (your cat will grow to associate the command with the act of sitting, and eventually will learn to sit down whenever you ask him to.)

- As soon as his bottom touches the ground, click the clicker. It’s important that you time this precisely.

- Directly after clicking, give him a small food treat. Make sure it’s cut up very small – if it takes him more than two seconds to eat it, he’ll forget why you gave it to him.

- Repeat this process a few more times, and over the next few weeks, keep doing so until he’s comfortable with what’s expected of him. When he’s able to sit down on command, you can phase the clicker out – but still give treats sporadically (interestingly, if you treat every single time that he performs a command, he’s actually less likely to reliably obey that command. Keeping him on his toes seems to increase the likelihood of obedience!)

Further training

For step-by-step advice on how to train your cat in a huge variety of other obedience commands and tricks (from ‘stay’ to ‘play dead’ to ‘fetch’), check out the Complete Cat Training book – it’s full of training how-to’s, as well as a huge amount of detailed information on solving problem behaviors, cat psychology, and how to develop a more rewarding relationship with your cat.

To visit the Complete Cat Training website, click the link below:
Complete Cat Training

The act of chewing seems to be a matter of individual preference among dogs: some have an innate desire to chew as a pleasurable activity in itself, and some seem to have no need to chew whatsoever unless they’re driven to it out of sheer boredom.

The phrase “destructive chewing” may sound redundant, because – by its very nature! – all chewing is destructive. Your dog has strong jaws full of sharp, pointy teeth: just about anything she starts to chew on is probably going to show the effects of it inside of a minute. So just to clarify, when I use the phrase “destructive chewing”, I’m referring to inappropriate chewing: the kind of chewing that’s focused on your own possessions and household items, instead of on your dog’s own designated toys and chews.

The three main reasons why dogs chew:

- Most dogs have a natural desire to chew. It’s fun, it passes the time, and it’s a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing activity (for example, if she’s chewing on something that tastes good.)

- Chewing provides a nervous, bored, or lonely dog with an outlet for her emotions. To an anxious dog, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing – it’s the doggie equivalent of comfort food.

- Underexercised dogs often use chewing as a way of burning up nervous energy and giving themselves something to do.

- How to prevent destructive chewing -

Dogs are perfectly capable of learning not to chew your stuff – you just have to put in a little effort first, that’s all.

1. Take control of the situation: manage your own possessions. Your first step should be to dog-proof your home. Even if you have the best-behaved dog in the world, there’s still no reason to test her self-control – after all, dogs explore the world with their mouths.

Dog-proofing your home means taking whatever you don’t want to end up in her mouth, and making it unavailable. Consider her size and agility when deciding whether something’s out of reach: can she jump? Can she climb, or leap onto something else to reach the desired object? How tall is she when standing on her back legs?

Common targets in the home include books, eyewear, clothing, shoes, garbage, and small crunchy appliances like cameras, cell phones, and remote controls.

It should go without saying that all food needs to be put securely away: don’t leave snacks on low tables (or even countertops – you’d be surprised how acrobatic she can be when there’s food at stake!), put all food into containers or the pantry. Rinse your dirty plates clean of any food scraps before leaving them by the sink.

2. Prevent her from learning the joys of illegal chewing. The more times she manages to snatch a jawful of a forbidden substance – a chair-leg, a pillow, a running shoe – the more readily she’ll target those items in future. If you can prevent her from chewing your stuff in the first place, it’s a lot easier for her to understand what you expect of her. Practically speaking, this means confining her in a dog-proofed area until you’re confident of her understanding of the house rules.

3. Don’t set her up for failure by blurring the boundaries between her stuff (OK to chew) and your stuff (not OK to chew). Don’t offer your dog cast-off clothes, shoes, or towels to chew and play with: realistically, you can’t possibly expect her to be able to tell the difference between your current shoes and the one she’s got in her mouth that you gave her five minutes ago.

4. Provide her with lots of tasty alternatives to your stuff. If her environment is relatively barren of attractive, appropriate chewing objects, you can hardly blame her for targeting your possessions. Remember, most dogs need to chew; if she’s an adolescent (under three years) or a puppy (under one year), her needs will be even more pronounced. Go on a toy and chew shopping spree, then give her two or three to play with at a time. Rotating the available toys every few days will keep things novel and interesting for her.

5. Spend lots of time in active supervision. Yes, it might be easier for you to just keep her penned up in her crate, run, or the yard – but that’s boring and horrible for her, and hardly much fun for you either (if you wanted a pet that you don’t need to interact with, you’d have got a goldfish, right?) She can’t learn what you expect of her if she’s spending all her time boxed up in the dog-proof zone: she needs the opportunity to explore the boundaries of your expectations, so she can understand what’s appropriate and what’s not.

6. When you catch her chewing something inappropriate, interrupt her by making a loud noise: clap your hands or make an “Ah-ah-aaaah!” noise. Then, immediately hand her a tasty and dog-appropriate alternative (a rawhide bone or other chew toy); as soon as her jaws close around it, praise her lavishly. There is no better way to get your dog to understand that chewing “her” toys equals praise from you, but everything else equals trouble.

- Maintain a productive attitude -

Above all, remember to keep your expectations realistic. You’re not perfect, and neither is your dog: there’s likely to be at least one incident where a cherished item is damaged by her curiosity.

Particularly in the early stages of your relationship, she’s still learning the ropes: it’ll take awhile before she’s completely reliable (and even then, if she’s left by herself for too long or feels neglected, she may choose your stuff over hers to occupy her time and jaws with.) Remember to give her time to learn the rules, and plenty of ‘you-time’ to help her learn faster – and don’t forget to take precautions and keep things out of reach until she’s got the hang of the chewing rules!

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.
You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link below:
~~~> Secrets to Dog Training

How to care and breed your discus fish …the correct way!

More manuals over the years have been written about keeping and breeding discus fish then any other exotic fish. This is because they are very popular with pet owners. Discus fish are very sensitive creatures, if you want to keep long lasting discus fish you need to be aware of there preferred living conditions and feeding and breeding habits.

Discus is a native of the calm and warm Amazon River Keeping discus fish requires the pet owner to have the right information about what to expect and what to offer them to make these exotic creatures happy. Discus fish keeps changing their behaviour according to the environmental factors.

They are generally shy but if your planning to keep discus fish you will notice that they become quite aggressive to there own kind this is because of breeding territory protection. In this type of situation only the strong discus will survive and the week get attacked. Its best to keep to keep discus fish in groups of minimum six individuals is considered ideal. By keeping them in groups it will increase confidence in group members and lower the risk of misbehaviour. Keeping discus fish can bring lots of challenges and rewards at the same time too.

Here are some quick tips for you…

Pairing: Discus fish really don’t take well to arrange marriages, the best way to get a pair to gather is to buy a group of young unrelated fish of the same colour type and let them pair up themselves. This might happen from when the fish are half grown, spawning usually occurs when there ¾ of their adult size. The fish will usually remain a pair until the remainder of there lives.

Spawning: Discus will choose a near vertical smooth site, which they clean and then the female will lay any ware from 80-400 eggs and then the male fertilises them. It can take between 50-60 hours for the eggs to hatch and another 36-48 hours until their swimming freely.

Breeding Tank: It’s best to keep the breeding tanks simple and to have a simple air powered filtration, spawning sites (terracotta cones, broad leafed plants or slate) and no substrate. The water needs to be very soft so the eggs can develop properly. The quality of the water needs to be excellent and have a temperature of about 84-88F. Also a suitable tank size is 24×18x18.

Feeding and Conditioning: The parents will need a good and varied diet not just to condition them to spawn, but to provide nutrition when they are feeding their fry. Large water changes, a temperature rise and heavy feeding is often a good spawning trigger.

Fry Rearing: It’s a good idea to give the fry additional feedings of small foods such as (BBS) baby brine shrimp whilst with parents. You will notice after about 3-6 weeks the parents will be exhausted, also the fry will be growing fast it’s a good idea to remove them. This is where lots of tanks and water changes are needed to achieve a decent growth rate. I used to grow circa. 40 fry to just under 2″ in a 55G tank, and this required heavy water changing. The discus market is saturated with fish, so it best to grow 20-50 excellent fry than 80 runts. Growth is reasonable, but not spectacular.

So if you’re thinking about breeding discus fish I hope these quick tips have been of some use to you.

Remember it pays to do your research. You can learn everything you need to know at discus fish secrets.

We love pets!

So let us know what kind of pet you have. It will also help us with knowing what kind of content we should add.

Please feel free to post pics,  (you have to sign up to do this), also tell us your pet stories.

Thanks much

Kriss – Admin

  Some people spend hundreds on their cats alone each year. Whether they spend it on the robotic mouse or bag after bag of cat food. After years with my cat I have learned that all of the glitz and glamor truly does not matter to ones pet. The only thing that matters is that one shows that they do love their cat.

 TOYS: Instead of getting some wiggly thing on a string that hangs from a door and only lasts a couple days I have found a cheaper version. Cats love any thing that makes a scraping sound and moves. Therefore, all you have to do is buy a bag of straws (the bendable kind). That’s right straws that come packaged by the hundreds and will last your cats whole life and then some. All you have to do is run one along the wall in front of your cat. The scratching sound (this does not hurt your walls) attracts the cats and the motion of running it along the wall keeps them hooked. Another way to get a toy for you cat that requires less human involvement costs only 25 or 50 cents. The little machines that hold toys or candy when you enter a store and are a moms nightmare is what I am talking about. The ones that hold toys are the machine any cat owner should have there eye on. If they have any of the toys in a plastic shell, chuck the toy and keep the shell for your cat to hit around. Be inventive with these toys. My cat currently hits around a larger size dice that I got out of one machine. Another quick tip would be to ball up some tin foil and let them hit that around. Shinny and round is always a good thing.

FOOD:I have found that the easiest way and cheapest way to get food is from a large convenience store and to get the biggest bag. They cost about $11 dollars, but are well worth it. Depending on how many cats one has these bags can be known to last months. Well small bags only last around two weeks (these time ranges based on two cats well fed) Another thing is unless your cat would rather starve then eat cheap cat food go for the semi cheap. You want to find a brand that is not  just chicken because who wants to eat chicken for months. The expensive brands may sound healthy, but I find my cat is perfectly healthy on semi expensive. Plus, there is always the great deals that go along with many of these brands. As for treats, that I can not tell you cheap is better. They are after all treats. I can tell you the bags full are a lot better then the wet cat food and tuna. Plus, the bag treats make less mess because cats do not puke (from eating to fast) after eating the little treats in the bags.

If anyone has a question about any one topics that they are looking for cheaper ways to deal with please feel free to comment. Also if these suggestions are just not working I will try to help you out. Remember the best thing to give your cat out of all is love and the time of day.